I’m lucky to play more than my fair share of special golf courses, and Gozzer Ranch now sits firmly on that list. The pictures tell much of the story, but a few architectural notes are worth adding:

It’s easy to see beauty in a course, harder to see its substance. One example of substance at Gozzer is in the number of greens that slope away from the line of approach—3, 5, 8, 11, and 15, at least. They're appropriate and challenging uses of mountainous terrain to vary the thought processes and shots required from hole to hole.

The holes on the least dramatic land—2 and 5—come in the early going. They’re still very good holes, but they don’t “rollick” like most of the course. That feels like a deliberate and reasonable choice to use that land mostly towards the beginning.

Gozzer has two drivable par fours, both unusual in their own ways. The 4th is a small-scale hole (270 from the tips) on an otherwise giant-scale course, with a small green tucked between rocks and a hillside. It feels almost separate from the rest of the course for that reason.

Like other mountain courses, Gozzer seems to have generally softer turf. Lies were immaculate, but certain holes—like the long par-four 5th, where shots would stick into the upslope five yards short of the fallaway green—might not play exactly as intended. Between the mountainous terrain and several fallaway greens, I think Gozzer would be an exceptionally fun course to play in firm conditions.

Gozzer has several holes that are as good as it gets, great golf holes that are totally gorgeous. I would include in this list 3, 8, 11, 12, 15, and 18. And several other holes are close including 6, 7, 10, 13, and 17. And the "other" seven holes aren’t bad either! 

One of my biases is loving anything that makes way-back tees feel special or different—a bridge that goes only to a back tee box, a different cart or walking path than the other tees, stuff like that—and the first hole at Gozzer has maybe my favorite. The regular scorecard includes only the regular tees (numbered I-IV). The tips are called the Bull tees; they’re on their own scorecard; and the only place you can get that card is from this mailbox next the back tee on #1. 

A final thought is that I think playing Royal Dornoch and Gozzer Ranch in the same summer has mostly rid me of my urge to rank courses. As great golf courses go, Dornoch and Gozzer have essentially nothing in common. I have no idea which one is better, and ultimately I don't really care because it's hard to imagine a scenario where I'd have to choose between them anyway! If I'm on the first tee of either one, it's going to be a peak experience and an unforgettable day.

Then I drove up to Brora and spent about an hour in my car, the pro shop, and the clubhouse hemming and hawing about playing because the rain was quite bad at this point. I finally decided that the flight and drive to get back there another time was even worse than the weather and I might as well have a go. Brora is most noted for the sheep that roam the course and for the electric wires circling every green that keep them out—you'll see them in many of the pictures below. I would enjoy the opportunity to try Brora again when it's firm and at least decent weather, but it was still a memorable afternoon.

This is probably the best picture I took in Scotland, of 13 and surrounds and I wanted to give it the spotlight:

I guess my biggest takeaway from the day was that, like most other offerings from the 1800's, we generally have better ideas and more understanding these days—but that doesn't mean that everything about today's offerings is superior. Many things, but not all.

Also it's 10:07 PM and not even remotely dark!